Hanoi Food Guide: Where to Eat, by Neighbourhood

Hanoi is the most rewarding food city in Vietnam for sheer density of specialist stalls. Whole streets are devoted to a single dish, every neighbourhood has its rival pho, and the rule of thumb — eat at places that only do one thing — works almost everywhere.

The Old Quarter (Hoàn Kiếm)

Start here. Within a square kilometre you can have phở at Phở Gia Truyền (49 Bát Đàn — open mornings only, queue), bún chả at Bún Chả Đắc Kim (1 Hàng Mành), bánh cuốn at Bánh Cuốn Gia Truyền (14 Hàng Gà), xôi at Xôi Yến (35B Nguyễn Hữu Huân), and egg coffee at Café Giảng (39 Nguyễn Hữu Huân) or Café Đinh (13 Đinh Tiên Hoàng). Most dishes here run 40,000 to 80,000 VND.

Around Hoàn Kiếm Lake

Phở Thìn at 13 Lò Đúc is the famous stir-fried-beef version, slightly to the south. Bún Chả Hương Liên at 24 Lê Văn Hưu is the "Obama bun cha" spot — overpriced at 100,000 VND now but still serviceable. Quán Ăn Ngon at 18 Phan Bội Châu is the sit-down everything-on-the-menu restaurant that's the safest pick for a first dinner.

French Quarter (Hai Bà Trưng)

Cha Ca Thang Long at 21–31 Đường Thành is the modern continuation of the Cha Cá La Vọng tradition — turmeric-marinated fish grilled and tossed with dill at the table, around 200,000 VND a head. Quán Bia Hà Nội on Lý Thường Kiệt is the formal beer-hall for braised chicken and bia hơi.

West Lake (Tây Hồ)

Sang Restaurant on Quảng An has been the riverside fine-dining option for years. Maison de Tet Décor on Tô Ngọc Vân is the brunch-and-coffee favourite for the expat crowd. For phở cuốn — Tây Hồ's own dish of fresh rice-paper sheets wrapped around stir-fried beef — go to Phở Cuốn Hương Mai on Ngũ Xã in the Trúc Bạch neighbourhood.

Ba Đình and Đống Đa

Bún Bò Nam Bộ at 67 Hàng Điếu (just outside the Old Quarter) is the long-running stop for southern-style rice vermicelli with beef. Bún Thang Bà Đức at 48 Cầu Gỗ is the bún thang reference. Bánh Cuốn Bà Hoành on Tô Hiến Thành in Đống Đa is the bánh cuốn destination.

Markets

Đồng Xuân market in the Old Quarter is the standard tourist market; the rear hot-food section serves bún ốc, bún riêu and chè. Chợ Hôm on Phố Huế is busier and more local. Quảng Bá flower market at 4am has roadside phở stalls that draw market workers.

What to skip

Phở 24 and the other chain restaurants — they are fine but not why you flew here. Anything with a tout outside on Tạ Hiện. Most "Western food" in the Old Quarter, which is execrable. Hanoi pizza is improving but does not yet justify a meal slot.

How to plan a day

Breakfast at one of the named phở or xôi places. Mid-morning coffee at a pavement café. Lunch of bún chả or bún thang. Afternoon chè or a fruit-juice stall. Evening bia hơi on the corner of Tạ Hiện and Lương Ngọc Quyến, with grilled snacks. Late dinner of bánh mì or another bowl of noodles.

Related reading: Hanoi, Phở, Bún chả, Egg coffee, Bia hơi culture.